Birds Of India: March 2017

BHIGWAN

Bhigwan, which in Hindi means watery forest. Though you don’t see any forest here, it is a large low lying submerged area, fed by the Mula-Mutha Rivers, which later meets the Bhima River, which itself later meets the Krishna River and finally emptying to the Bay of Bengal.

Bhima River

Ujani Dam and Kumbhargaon Location

The Bhima River on which the Ujani Dam has been built rises from Bhimashankar hills in the Western Ghats, also known as the Sahyadri hill range. The Upper Bhima River basin is subdivided into three zones namely northern, middle and southern, the main stem of the river is in the middle zone where the Bhima Dam is built, The Ujani Dam commissioned in June 1980 is an earth cum concrete masonry dam, which has created a multipurpose reservoir. The Dam is around 160 Kms from Pune, on Pune Solapur Highway. Due to this dam, there is a reservoir which formed upstream between Bhigwan and Indapur, on the Pune-Solapur Highway around 105 km from Pune. As a result of reservoir submergence, realignment of railway line (of the Daund Solapur section) to a length of 33.251 km (20.661 mi), realignment of National Highway No. 9 between Pune and Solapur sector over a length of 23.4 km (14.5 mi), and the State Highway between Tembhurni and Karmala to the extent of 15.35 km (9.54 mi) was involved. You can still see the alignment and electric poles when the water levels are low.

It was in 2014, that I for the first time learnt about Bhigwan as a birding spot, primarily for Pink Flamingo or Greater Flamingo (Phoenicopterus roseus). In the local language, they are called ‘Agni Pankh’ Literally meaning ‘Fire Wing’. Which incidentally corresponds to the Spanish / Portuguese meaning, ‘Flame coloured’.

Getting to Bhigwan

I was given a mobile number of a person who organizes boat rides at Bhigwan to speak to. I got in touch with Sandeep Nagare and he gave the directions from Pune. The place Kumbhargaon is approx 110 Km from Pune towards Solapur. After you cross Bhigwan village, you proceed another 5 Km, where you see a group of shops along an exit to the service lane, as you go another 1 km, as the road climbs up, just before the crest, you see a road going left. From the highway, you drive along the village metaled road for about 6-7 km, keeping left on the first fork, right on the next and again left on the third, after which the road curves to the right. Finally, at the last fork you will see a board showing the way to birding site. The road was dusty and potholed. We reached in about two and a half hour, though we missed the first boat ride at sunrise.

Kumbhargaon

We were at a quaint little fishing village on the banks of Bhima River, with views of the river providing a picturesque background along the drive from the highway. The spot had a shady parking space for vehicles besides the house of Mr Sandeep Nagare. Since we had time till the next boat ride, we got talking to Mr Sandeep and he alluded to the setup that he was running there. It emerged he was a true nature enthusiast and entrepreneur who had seen the opportunity present itself with bird enthusiasts coming there for birding and organized the village boys to assist in birding. He had trained these boys in identifying the birds and himself had made a booklet with local names of the birds. All these boys were from local fishing families and had a connect with conservation of the water body for their day to day livelihood. He had about 5-6 boats and 2 boys were dedicated to each boat, as it involved 1-2 hrs of rowing. The house had provision for meals and some rooms for home stay.

Then and Now

I again visited the place on 19 Feb 17. When I spoke to Sandeep, he mentioned, that since I had come last, there have been changes and he immediately sent me a google drop pin to assist me in navigating. The highway from Pune are better now, with three toll booths en route. The road from the highway to Kumbhargaon too is in a better state now. The biggest change was at the house of Sandeep and the boating site.

His house was the same with certain improvements in outer façade. He has now about nine rooms without attached toilets and three rooms with attached toilets available for avid photographers to stay overnight. In fact he seemed disappointed that though I had come late (around 1530), would not be staying for the night. He has also expanded his business with around 30 boats with adequate number of trained guides under him. He has also started a facility for tent stay (around (9 tents) on the river front. The rates for rooms vary from INR 700-1000, less food, which is at a nominal rate per person per meal.

In all this what strikes you is the neatness of the area that is maintained by the locals around the place. Even the guides who take you around are proficient in birding and aware of the light angles & best position for photography and accordingly steers the boat in position for you. I had Umesh as my guide, who incidentally had been with me earlier too in 2014. He himself is into photography, with a self-owned basic camera, which he intends to upgrade at some point of time.

I personally had a good time birding and was able to see and click the following birds, some of the photos of these are also below: -

Asian Open Billed Stork

Black Headed Ibis

Black Winged Stilt

Brown Headed Gull

Bar Headed Gulls

Common Greenshank

Egret

Glossy Ibis

Godwit

Greater Flamingo

Grey Heron